Toyota Corolla Brakes

Sue's 1998 Toyota Corolla has recently been showing evidence of a brake problem. There has been some pulsating in the pedal recently indicating a "warped" rotor. That's in quotes because warping of rotors as commonly understood is actually a myth. There are many ways that a rotor can become uneven due to pad deposits, uneven wear, etc. but actual warping due to overheating or splashing puddles isn't the real cause. Occasionally, the pads have not been releasing properly from the rotor and causing the rotor and wheel to heat up considerably. So here's a quick how-to for cleaning and/or replacing your disc brake pads and/or rotor. Though this is for a Corolla, the basic idea works for most disc brake setups.

Break the wheel nuts loose.

Jack up the car and place it on a jack stand with the stand under a secure part of the car capable of taking the pressure. Don't depend on the jack alone.

Remove the wheel and set it aside.

With a 12mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the caliper on the caliper carrier. These are the bolts that screw into the slide pins covered by the rubber accordion boots. You might need a breaker bar and some PB Blaster squirted on the rust to get them free.

Slide the caliper off (this may take some working back and forth leveraging with a screwdriver) and hang it from the suspension on a wire so there's no pressure on the rubber brake line.

With a 17mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the caliper carrier on. Again, you will probably need a breaker bar for leverage. Remove the caliper carrier completely. The brake pads are held by tabs in the thin metal sliders.

The rotor should just pull off the hub. There's nothing holding it on except for possible rust, so whack it from behind or screw bolts into the two little holes provided for forcing it off.
Clean rust flakes out of the rotor vanes with a pipe brush or similar tool and set it aside.

Admire your handiwork. You've successfully unbolted as much as you have to. Time to clean and reassemble.

Remove the pads from the carrier and clean everything with a wire brush. Don't brush the surface of the pads, but clean all the rough rust off everything else. There are thin metal plates on the back of the pads - for anti-squeal, I think. Keep track of them if they fall off and put them back on when reassembling.

Carefully pull the slide pins out of the rubber boots on the carrier without damaging the boots and without letting rust fall into the boots. Brush rust off the outer ends of the pins and apply silicone caliper grease to the pins before reinserting them. They should slide nicely after re-greasing.

Brush out the pad sliders. Grease them with the silicone grease, and put some on the pad tabs and put a coating on the back of the pads. Do not get grease on the surface of the pads. If you do, wipe it off with a clean rag without smearing it around. Put the pads back in the sliders, leaving enough space between them to slide it back over the rotor.

Brush rust off the caliper, taking care not to tear the rubber seal around the caliper piston. Apply some silicone spray to the seal to give it some moisture. In my case, there is a tiny tear in the boot, so that may very well be the cause of the sticky brake since water and dirt can get in around the piston and cause it to not return properly.

Put a block of wood over the piston and use a large C-clamp to push the piston back in a couple millimeters. You'll need to push it back in farther if you're replacing worn pads with new ones. If you are pressing it farther, check your brake fluid reservoir and siphon some fluid out with a turkey baster if it looks like it's going to overflow when you press the caliper in. Brake fluid takes paint off quickly so you don't want it spilling.

Smear anti-seize grease (e.g. copper grease) on the hub surface so the rotor won't stick and put the rotor back on. Slide the caliper carrier with the pads in it over the rotor and put the bolts back in, tightening them properly. Slide the caliper over the carrier and pads and put those bolts back in. Make sure the slide pins are turned so they fit properly.

Replace the wheel and lower the car. Pump the brake pedal gently a few times until it firms up. It may take a few pumps before the piston is back into position. Start the car and enjoy your new or re-greased brakes!